Homeless in Cape Town, part II

If the hippie generation were considered nearly extinct in the narrow coastal regions of the Western U.S., a derivative species prospers here in Cape Town. The rolling, white froth of waves which took form from swells hundreds of meters off shore tease from a late morning slumber those whose dreadlocks long for a salt shower.

The homeless population is omni-present too, sleeping in the doorways of restaurants and surf shops, and between stone walls whose cavities reduce the constant wind to a loud whisper.

I am unable to walk to the AIMS research centre without at least one, usually two people asking for food, money, or clothing. I give what I can, but in return I receive something too.

With the shake of a hand, the lowering of my glasses in order to make eye contact, and a polite application of sir or ma’am, I capture their stories.

Last night, a homeless man sat next to me on the long, blue wooden bench at the train station in Observatory. He talked to himself, as many people living on the street seem to (I am certain I would as well, over time), as we waited for the next, last train to return to Muizenberg. With the ticket office closed, there is no fee for the last run. A number of homeless men (and some women) find transport at this time.

He pulled from a large plastic bag four pairs of shoes: sneakers, white and black running shoes, and another pair I did not see clearly. He settled on the black shoes, placing the others back in the bag.

We sat there, without speaking or eye contact for at least ten minutes. It felt awkward to me so I broke the silence, “How was your day?”

He hesitated, still talking to himself, it seemed. He then looked up and offered a few words. His Afrikaans accent was thick and what’s more, he had a pen cap held between his lips on the right side of his mouth. I nodded, agreeing with whatever it was that he said. Then my ears and brain adjusted, as they do when I live abroad, and the rhythm of his words felt more familiar. I picked up the start of each phrase, then words, then meaning.

He removed the pen cap from his lips and we were communicating.

With my probing, his story unfolded. I nearly reached for my cell phone to record his words as the depth and meaning came clear to me. What he shared was important, for it told the story of so many people of this land.

He is working temp jobs, project to project, as a grounds keeper, painter, and carpenter in training. He has worked primarily for one man, in Cape Town, where he is given food, some clothing, and payment in Rand. He wants to open a bank account, to learn how to manage his budget, but has not yet had enough to make that happen.

I asked if he had a family. His eyes opened wider and he leaned a bit closer, while still at the opposite side of a long bench. I turned my shoulders and chest toward him, unfolded my arms to let him know I was fully listening.

“Yes. I have a son. He was born in 2006, so now he is … he is …

[he calculated the years] eight years old.”

“Wonderful,” I responded.

The man smiled for the first time, continuing, “My son, what a beautiful boy. I love his so very much. He is just eight years old, but already so clever. He, he can take my cell phone and already figure it out. No one taught him this, he just, he just knows,” nodding.

“He sounds very smart indeed.” He paused for a bit, looking at his shoes then back to me, “We were to have another child, but … but he was still-born.”

“I am so sorry. I can’t imagine the pain of that for both of you.”

“Yes, yes it was very … difficult for us.”

There was a lull. He fidgeted with his shoulder bag and I with the buttons on my cargo pant pockets. Then he continued.

“His mother and I, we want to be married. I want to marry that woman for I love her very much. We lived together, but she made me to leave. I smoke cigarettes and drink beer and will not have me.”

I listened. He continued.

“I go to church. Every Sunday. I want to be a man of God. We are all people of God, you know, but I want to do his will, to do right for my son and his mother. Some day, I will come back to her ready for marriage. I promised her this … and I will. Some day … some day …” and he trailed off, talking to himself again as much as me.

He nearly had tears in his eyes, as did I. We pushed them back with a smile. He knew the challenges, he set his goals, and he is working to achieve them. But kicking alcohol and smoking are not simple processes, and no amount of attending church will cure him of these.

Again, I see patterns of basic human behaviour, which will never be correctly assessed nor managed. Addiction. Self-medication. Dealing with the pain and fear of life on the edge. How many times has he come to this realization but without guidance, without an example in his life, how can anyone know what to do next?

We boarded the train and sat across from each other.

He told me about the area where his son and his son’s mother live. A very bad part of the cape where the gangs have control. He told me that if he lived there, he would be forced to join a gang. He chose to live away from them, seeing them only on the weekends, in order to focus on earning money which he sends to them, when he can. He will see both on Saturday, for the first time in a few weeks.

He made a good choice. I was impressed, given his circumstances.

In asked, “You said you attend church often, correct?”

“Yes, yes. That I do. It is a good church. But I never tell the pastor my story. I don’t want for him to know. I only want to pray, to ask God for guidance.”

“I understand. That is very humble of you.”

“Thank you sir.”

“May I ask, however, if your church has programs to help people like you, who want to improve their life?” He did not understand my words for we had just pulled out of the station and the train was very noisy, my accent certainly foreign to him. I repeated.

“I really don’t know. I have not asked. What is this you say?”

“I don’t know about here, for I have just arrived, but some churches in the US have programs to help people like you, people without a home and a struggling family, to improve their position.”

“Oh? I did not know this.”

“I cannot promise, of course, but it might be worth asking.”

“Ok. Ok. I will ask my pastor. He does not know my story.”

I concluded, “You are a good storyteller and your story is worth telling. Tell him, as you humbly told me, ask for nothing, and simply see what he says.”

“I will do this my brother. I hope to see you next time I ride the train.” He rose from his seat, shoulder bag and plastic bag of shoes, and departed at that stop.

I forgot to ask his name.

By |2017-04-10T11:17:36-04:00May 15th, 2014|2014, Out of Africa|0 Comments

Humbled by the Waves

Enjoyed an apartment-warming lunch with a few of my classmates today: Lise, Michelle and her husband (my tutor) Emile, and Adriaan and Huly from AIMSEC.

Then I went surfing—and got my ass handed to me on a salty platter. Beat up. Smacked by my board. Smacked by the waves. Tumbled to the point of confusion. Just when I thought I was figuring it out, I could not even stand up. Bigger, faster than anything I had been in before, and I was once more a beginner.

I came into the beach, watching the experts, contemplating my ineptitude when my surfing instructor William walked up. He has beach blonde hair, dark skin, and bright blue eyes that seem to glow of their own accord. He is a prankster who loves a good story, shared or received. “Mister Kai! How are you today?” His whimsical, Afrikaans accent mixed with a jovial attitude always makes me smile.

I responded, “I fear I have forgotten everything you have taught me.”

“Young man, just what seems to be the problem?” He loves to taunt me with ‘young man’ to which I respond with ‘sir’ and the cycle continues.

I explained where I was failing. On the beach, he drew diagrams in the sand and walked me through a few adjustments in my stance, position on the board, and means of getting out, through the waves.

He had a free hour so we got back in the water and I followed him out, to the back line. I was exhausted, my arms without feeling. I got tossed, smacked, and tumbled. I paddled for fifteen minutes, maybe more. It was the fact that he did not wait for me, but sat comfortably on his board, always 30 meters ahead of me, waving, that I kept going. Later, he admitted to this tactic, and laughed.

William said, “Mister Kai! It’s time to stop drinking the Appleteiser and drink beer with the boys! You made it to the backline for the first time. Congratulations!” He shook my hand, both of us sitting on our boards a good 200 meters off-shore. I thought I was going to lose my lunch.

After a few minutes rest, I caught a wave (just barely) and rode it half way in. One of the seasoned pros rode a dozen waves to my one, flipping 360 over and over again on the crest. I went back out again, just once more, and then I was done. I rode a wave to shore, resting on my belly. I never tire of the sensation of flying over the water, a light mist spraying my face. The power of the water can destroy you, or carry you with a sense of grace.

By |2017-04-10T11:17:36-04:00April 27th, 2014|2014, Out of Africa|0 Comments

Kalk Bay, a photo essay

Kai Staats: Girl on Sandstone, Kalk Bay, South Africa Kai Staats: Father and Son, Kalk Bay, South Africa Kai Staats: Fish, Kalk Bay, South Africa Kai Staats: Woman Selling Fish, Kalk Bay, South Africa Kai Staats: Fish, Kalk Bay, South Africa Kai Staats: Fish, Kalk Bay, South Africa
Kai Staats: Day at the Beach Kalk Bay, South Africa Kai Staats: Wedding Procession, Kalk Bay, South Africa Kai Staats: Day at the Tide Pools Kalk Bay, South Africa IMG_2507 Kai Staats: Ice Cream, Kalk Bay, South Africa Kai Staats: Bottle, Kalk Bay, South Africa Kai Staats: Captain and Deck Hand, Kalk Bay, South Africa Kai Staats: Boat, Kalk Bay, South Africa
Kai Staats: Day at the Beach, Kalk Bay, South Africa Kai Staats: Kids, Kalk Bay, South Africa Kai Staats: Day at the Tide Pools Kalk Bay, South Africa Kai Staats: Day at the Beach, Kalk Bay, South Africa

Kai Staats: Day at the Beach, Kalk Bay, South Africa The intensity of the sun and nearly silent wind inspires locals and tourists to this seaside town for what may be one of the last warm days of autumn. Shop owners stand by the front door, encouraging passers-by to venture inside for a drink, lunch, or a look around. Homeless kids welcome those with full stomach back onto the streets, asking for something to warm their insides in turn. Some simply point to their belly, their face and gestures needing no words. Others rattle sand and pebbles in an empty soda bottle, singing “Oh when the saints go marching in” out of tune and a few stanzas confused. Like fish in the sea, when one received food, the others swarm, begging, sometimes taking without asking from their friends.

The closest beach to downtown lies below the arch supported train bridge, at the bottom of the marina. That day the beach was used primarily by blacks and coloureds. A white man walked across the top, just behind me and to the left, saying “I don’t understand Why they don’t erect a fence, to keep those kids out. Just look at them.” Tents and umbrellas sheltered parents who keep careful watch over their children a play. Chicken and burgers grill over open coal fires, the smell of a meal in preparation enough to call those who wade play to shallower water. A seal breaches just off shore, a child laughs and tries to splash it. Too late, for the seal submerges again, releasing its breath an incredible distance from where it was last spotted.

Kai Staats: Seal, Kalk Bay, South Africa I stood from my kneeling position after taking a photo of a girl sitting among the sandstone formations (above) when a man with two small girls approached me. He asked for two or three minutes of my time. I assumed he would soon ask for money, the children a ploy. I didn’t mind the conversation, so I invited him to continue as we walked together, his young girls running forward and then waiting, criss-crossing between our legs once we caught up with them again.

He asked if there was money to be made in photography. “No,” I answered honestly, “it is far, far too hard a business to break into. I would not recommend it to anyone at this time. Too many people with high quality cameras, even if they are not the best photographers, they make it work.”

He continued, sharing his vision for a photography exhibition which tells the story of his people, the Malay, who were brought to this continent as slaves more than two hundred years ago. We continued to walk and I was engaged. I kept waiting for his request for money, but it never came. I asked questions. He shared. I learned a great deal. He was direct and well informed, his historic research impressive, to me.

I recognized the coincidence, that he should have approached me, one who is always seeking this very kind of story. As we neared the end of the beach I explained that I am documentary film maker and am interested in continuing the conversation. We exchanged contact information. I encouraged him to record his story in the coming weeks in order that we might prepare a rough script.

I then asked why he approached me. He answered, “I watched you, how you photographed. You took your time … that’s all.” Perhaps the story of his people displaced will generate something more far reaching than what he intended when he approached me. We’ll see …

By |2017-04-10T11:17:36-04:00March 29th, 2014|2014, Out of Africa|0 Comments

Blue Jeans and Cell Phones, From L.A. to Cape Town

Blue jeans remain the prevalent trouser. Indians, Canadians, French, and South Africans too, they all wear blue jeans. I wonder if there was ever such an international attire before denim?

A boy of three or four years of age opens a clamshell toy. There are four primary buttons, each of which cause a different song to play. A synthesized female voice speaks Chinese, and he responds. Some of the songs are what I assume to be of Chinese origin, some of European tradition, classical music which I do not recognize.

I close my laptop and watch him. He notices. His father sees that I am paying attention and directs the boy to share his toy with me. I hold my hands, palms up, waiting. He walks toward me but does not fully engaged. He plays four songs successively, each for only a few seconds. I see that our exchange may be rather limited, so I played music from my cell phone, a kind of call and response. For a moment I was reminded of the musical exchange in “Close Encounters of a Third Kind” but neither I nor the boy were willing to climb on-board the alien ship, it seemed.

A man sat across from my, carrying nothing but a candy bar style cell phone. Mid-thirties, European I believe, he reminded me of the robber I encountered in Paris, casually dressed with shiny, pointed shoes. I watched him as he looked out the glass wall to my left. Every now and again his eyes would glance at my two carry-on cases, one of which contained my Canon C100 camera, the other my lenses and 60D. Combined, there is roughly $15,000 in value. My instinct said I did not want to fall to sleep with this man in my presence, but logic said he was inside the security arena, meaning he would have had to purchase a ticket in order to steal and risk getting caught before his plane departed. Nonetheless, I packed my things and moved to another location, never revealing the contents of my Pelican case or shoulder bag.

Toddlers run like chimpanzees, their legs moving in small semi-circles more than direct, front to back motions as with adults. They attempt to keep up with their parents who better understand the urgency of making the departing gate on time.

The small woman behind the counter of a small cafe wore a tight, button down shirt. It seemed the buttons might pop from the outward pressure of her breasts. She did not smile, not even when thanked by her customers. I asked if she was having a good day and she answered honestly, “It’s ok. Just ok.”

I was again reminded of the mixed blessing and curse to have been born with English as my native language language as I could almost expect anyone selling anything in any major airport in the European Union and near East to understand my words. The downside being the reduced motivation to learn a second, third, or fifth language fluently, forever stuck in one way of seeing the world through one vocabulary and associated cultural context.

The airport in Istanbul was wonderfully devoid of power sockets, perhaps just one or two per gate waiting area. At the far end of each was a place where the carpet was replaced with tile flooring. A five man Capuera dance team was practicing. I recalled the lessons I took in Fort Collins a few years prior, and how much I enjoyed the new means by which my body could move. These guys were very good, successfully giving the roots of break-dancing a new birth.

Chinese, Japanese, Spanish, French, German, Dutch, Ethiopian, South African, Canadian and American (of the United States) all easily recognized by apparel, language, and physical interactions. Some rest in the chairs with legs open wide, full personal space taken while others minimize their presence, small, somewhat isolated. The Americans, when in groups, talking, talking, always talking. Easy to spot, most of the time.

A group of Asian men and women, very small in stature, sat in a double circle, barefoot, all facing out. They preferred the floor to the chairs provided, each of them wearing full body gowns on top of what I assume to be one more layers beneath. Deep red-brown skin weathered. Cracked lips and wrinkled eyes. Slight smiles which conveyed, to me, a depth of contentment more than a momentary impulse or temporarily delight.

In the Men’s toilet I was again reminded of personal rituals which seem to find foundation in cultural norms. I would never conceive to clear my nose in a public sink, and yet, this unfolded. Cup hands, splash face, blow nose. Three times followed by a quick padding of face and neck with paper towels. Not just one man, but a successive number, all the same routine. I had seen something like this in Kenya too, the Chinese construction engineers conducting a face and mouth washing routine which seemed to move in sets of three, loud and obnoxious by my standards, water splashed across the counter, mirror, and onto the floor.

I wonder if they, if any of us are truly aware of our own routines, some silent counting system in our heads telling us when we are complete. I have noticed that dogs and cats too tend to drink water in certain sets of laps, three or four quite common, if left uninterrupted.

On the plane a baby cries for what seemed like an hour. Her mother exhausted, uncertain what to do, sits down and just lets it go on. I kept thinking of this infant, lying in a wall mounted bin, unable to see her mother. The vibration of the engines and not so subtle movement of the total system certainly unfamiliar. The air pressure change alone is enough to make her scream, yet for me, the man snoring two seats to my rear is far less tolerable. I will take a crying child over snoring any day.

We are just an hour now from Johannesburg, South Africa, where this plane will stop but I will not depart. One final, third leg from Los Angeles to Cape Town, more than twenty four hours in flight, in all, another 6 in transit from Phoenix by road and six in lay-over in Istanbul.

I opened a printed novel for the first time since mid November and this, my second essay since the same time. In roughly three hours, I will land in my new home.

By |2017-04-10T11:17:36-04:00March 3rd, 2014|2014, From the Road, Out of Africa|0 Comments
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